If it’s surprising that you can achieve colors as arresting and vibrant in nature as you can in some faraway chemical lab, let that be a testament to how far we’ve come from the narrative of eating real food. I’ve long been obsessed with things that jiggle and shake. Oddball, maker of petite gelatin cups that come in four flavors (mango, double berry, grape, and grapefruit) make theirs with real fruit purées and without artificial flavors or colors. They bounce. They gyrate. They’re made jiggly with agar and locust bean and Gellar gums, meaning they avoid non-vegan gelatin. They are tiny, perfect, opaque bundts, a dance in a cup.
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